Part 4

Tuesday morning saw us up before the dawn, dawn is not happening until about 7.30. We went for another wander around the parking area overlooking the Loch and under the bridge looking for Otters, but not one to be seen. Our destination today was Loch Ness, the home of a legend. We drove around Inverness, trying to avoid the spaghetti junctions that are near the major centres, instead touring the country lanes and smaller satellite villages. The scenery can be so much like New Zealand, especially in these more established rural areas. We have the same roadside weeds and the gorse is everywhere just like at home. Because of our route we missed the more tourist oriented part of Loch Ness (Inverness end) but we did join the Loch near Urquhart Castle, and we did stop to go and have a look, but the camper did not sit comfortably in the car park, and the car park was full of tour buses and cars and people with cameras. There was a big fence surrounding the car park so you could not even catch a glimpse of the Castle. So off we went feeling we had not really missed much as we had already tromped around a few ruined castles. Our drive along the shore of Loch Ness was a bit disappointing, we expected viewing areas and lake access, but all of those spots were taken by cafe's, B&Bs and private residences. We managed the odd stop at the parking places where you got those classic Loch Peeps, but beware the trucks tearing along the narrow road at 50 miles an hour. Unfortunately this meant we did not have a real chance to search for the elusive Nessie, but then on reflection we found her about 16 years ago in Auckland on a hard stand at Westhaven Marina, she was 36ft long and constructed of Kauri.

We arrived in Fort Augustus at the Western end of Loch Ness, where the Caledonian canal continues. For us this was the redemption of Loch Ness, even though there were two bus loads of Chinese Tourists, it was a lovely place. We watched as four launches were locked up to the Caledonian Canal from Loch Ness, each lock raising them about 10 feet, with 3 locks in all. The view down Loch Ness from Fort Augustus was lovely as well with the mountains angling up from the Loch shore. This was to continue for the rest of our days travels, Lochs and mountains, river valleys then more Lochs and towering steep mountains. We even got a brief glimpse of Ben Nevis (the highest mountain in Britain) with its white cap of snow, but this was quickly swallowed by the lowering clouds. As we headed towards our campsite the mountains loomed higher and higher around us turning the already gloomy day darker and colder. We decided to stay at the Glencoe Caravan Park so we could again top up the water, have showers and empty the toilet. It was a lovely place, and would have been great on a fine sunny day, but in the drizzle it was just cold. 

Wednesday morning we got ourselves organised for our trip to Falkirk to see the Wheel. We also needed to get to a shop called Halfords to buy a Caravan mirror to jerry rig onto the smashed mirror. So off we set on another leg, the valleys that we drove through we're just stunning, the photos do not seem to do the view justice. We wound our way down through the Grampian Mountain range to Stirling and then on to Falkirk. We navigated through the busy streets to the car park at the Mega shopping centre, cunningly taking up 4 car parks so we wouldn't get boxed in. Driving a motorhome in England and Scotland is a pretty hair raising experience. Don't expect to find much parking for you motorhome, and if you do make sure you can get out. We purchased a mirror and Paul again with his MacGyver magic, duck taped it on. Then it was time to get out of town...

We parked in the bottom car park at the Falkirk Wheel hoping that we could get away with free camping for the night. Then we headed off to investigate this amazing piece of engineering. We were very lucky to see the lock working, as well as the wheel. The Falkirk Wheel which raises or lowers a canal boat from the Union Canal to the Forth & Clyde Canal in about 30 minutes, replaces a system of 11 locks that took 2 1/2 days to traverse. The Forth & Clyde Canal goes from one side of Scotland to the other, it is approximately 55 miles long, starts in Edinburgh and ends in of all places Bowling, so that was our next stop.

We had an alright sleep at Falkirk thanks to the local hoons in their cars, but we only had a short hop today to Bowling. Arriving before lunch we parked up in an overflow car park right beside the main drag, and set off to explore the town. At first we checked out the end of the Forth & Clyde Canal, and the Bowling Basin Marina, then we walked the streets. We discovered the delightful Bay Inn, so in we went for a Cider. We both fell in love with this place and the owner/barman was a gem. We stayed for another Cider then at about 3pm decided we should head back for some lunch ( they sold no pub food). Back at the camper we had a late lunch early dinner and then Paul went off on his own for a further explore, while I busily typed away. At 5.30 we were off again down to the Bay Inn for drinks and TV. What a treat to be ensconced in a comfy leather Sofa, toasty warm with a nice glass of red, listening to the burr of the conversation around you. I think this trip could quite easily turn into a pub crawl around Britain. It was a bit hard leaving Bowling as we had both felt very comfortable there, but we needed to move on. 

Friday saw us of again heading to a campsite down the west coast from the Firth of Clyde. We visited a few marinas on the way, pretty flash, but very expensive compared to home. Our route took us past a Nuclear Power Station and Wind Turbines an Oxymoron perhaps? Our eventual stop was the Culzean Castle Caravan park near Maybole just south of Ayr. We parked up and then walked over to Culzean Castle via the back road, before it closed at 4pm. What a place, a real fairy tale castle, with moats and turrets, viaducts and orangeries, walled gardens and forest walks. We spent about an hour roaming around, Paul snapping photos and Me in my own little dream world of flowing gowns and gallant men on horses. We went back to the camp and had lovely showers and then dinner.

Most of the Caravan and Camping Club sites are great. They have heated showers and toilets, full laundry facilities, toilet disposal sites, fresh water etc, and the people have been lovely. We only stop at a camp site every 2-3 days for the above reasons, as they do cost about £18-£25 per night. The other nights we do free camping or Britstops. Britstops is an organisation I joined that provides a guide to free places to park your motorhome, generally they are pubs, but sometimes Farms or car parks. We have found them to be really good, so our trip has now turned into a bit of a Pub crawl.

On Friday we left Maybole heading for Dumfries near the English border. Our route was around the coast of Galloway and Dumfries, but a spanner was thrown in the works when we had to detour inland, the roads were a might narrow and made even narrower by the dozens of buses and trucks coming the other way. So after a harrowing hour of detour we were back on track, we wound our way around the coast, the scenery was much like New Zealand so of course beautiful. We negotiated Dumfries and drove the narrow country road out to Glencaple. This stop was at a car park right on the town wharf at Glencaple, next to the Nith Hotel of course. We wandered around the town and watched the tide race in, then an hour later start out again. At about 4.30 in the afternoon the Geese started. The River Nith is known for its saltmarshes, and every year in October the Barnacle Geese arrive from the Svalbard Islands to feed and stay for the winter months on the saltmarshes. Every evening and morning they fly to and from the feeding grounds to Caerlaverock the reserve where they roost. What an amazing sound they make as they fly overhead in their thousands. We went and had a quick pint in the pub and had a chat to another couple who were in their motorhome, very interesting conversation. England is having the same problems as we are in New Zealand, an ageing population, a younger generation not being able to afford homes, and an overworked health system. 

The next morning, Sunday, saw us on the road early to negotiate the narrow lane before it got busy, and also to find a petrol station to top up the diesel and our gas bottle. Over here you top up your own gas bottle at the petrol station, so was a bit of a learning curve. Topped up we headed off to Gretna Green, the sight of many elopements in centuries gone by. I suppose I have read to many romance novels to know about it, Paul had no idea of the significance of the place. We checked out the local carboot sale and then wandered around the very tourist oriented sight. I can imagine the bus loads of Tourists who come here every year, and apparently it is a popular wedding venue.

So that was our last stop in Scotland, we got back on the A74 and headed south crossing the border without any fanfare. 

We both loved Scotland, for its beauty, simplicity, ruggedness and history. We miss it already.